… and Platinum vs White Gold

J. B. Simpson & Sons specialize in platinum jewellery. Our craftsmen are capable of designing and manufacturing absolutely anything desired.

When choosing the metal of preference, Platinum, 19kt, 18kt., 14kt., 10kt., yellow, white, rose or green colour, certain principals may help when making your selection.

Platinum is the resounding choice for rare and collection quality Diamonds and Gems.

Yellow, rose and green gold with high pure gold content, like 18 kt. tend to be softer and more malleable. If it is a ring we are designing, then the piece is made slightly heavier, which in turn gives it more strength.

White gold is the hardest and most durable of the gold combinations, and commands the strength required to resist everyday wear.

We recommend higher karats of gold for Earrings and other piercings. The smaller alloy (base metal) content causes less skin irritation. Oils from our bodies, particularly pierced areas occasionally react with nickel or copper alloys.

Titanium, Tungsten, Cobalt, Vitalium, Stainless Steel and Ceramic are also viable alternative metals for Gents wedding bands; costing a fraction of the price of gold.


P r o p e r t i e s  o f   p l a t i n u m  a r e   a s  f o l l o w s:

Most precious white metal naturally, minimum 85 % pure platinum, mixed with either Iridium, Ruthenium or cobalt alloy to provide desired strength and hardness.

Platinum is a very dense material, malleable but fantastic friction wear. It is a very clean and hypoallergenic metal that doesn’t oxidize. Its natural patina is steel white and this is why platinum is the preferred metal to use with diamonds.

Incredibly detailed platinum filigree jewellery designed and fabricated at the turn of the 20th century, is still structurally sound with very little wear. Engraved patterns remain in very good condition, even after 100 years of wear!

Platinum will scratch and get little Dings, but since the metal displaces itself, it can actually be pushed or burnished back to its original shape. Our craftsmen thoroughly enjoy designing and fabricating with platinum

W H I T E  G O L D

P r o p e r t i e s  o f  w h i t e  g o l d  a r e  a s  f o l l o w s:

Pure yellow gold (24karat) is alloyed (pigmented) to a white colour, very hard with very good friction wear.

The main ingredient of white gold alloy is nickel, which is not as sterile. White gold will oxidize over time in areas that are hidden from friction wear, i.e. inside edges of claws etc. The natural patina of white gold has a slight overtone of yellow, basically because the majority of the mixture is pure yellow gold. The higher karat gold (i.e. 18 karat) has higher pure yellow gold content, so 18 kt. white gold has more yellow overtones than 10 kt. white gold.

19kt white gold is the White gold metal of choice. It is a super white alloy that resists tarnishing very well. It is similar to Platinum in colour; without the strong yellow overtones found in 14kt and 18kt white gold. Rhodium plating is not necessary. 19kt white gold is extremely resilient to everyday wear- the hardest of the gold karat combinations!

There is another alloy option to white gold is Palladium. This metal is in the platinum family. The mixture with pure yellow gold results in a much whiter in colour that will not oxidize yellow overtones. Unfortunately, the price of palladium can be 50% to 75% of platinum, so our clients usually opt for white gold or platinum.


A counter measure for the yellow overtones of white gold is Rhodium Plating. This process essentially covers the portion of white gold with a platinum like metal called Rhodium. The plating is very white, but with normal everyday friction wear will periodically require re-plating. This will usually cost $ 60.00 – $ 200.00 (depending on the surface area of the piece).  J. B. Simpson and Sons recommend this process for pendants and earrings- minimal friction wear helps the plating last for a long time. Rings and bracelets endure much more wear and tear so frequent re-plating costs could eventually have paid for the upgrade to platinum or 19kt white gold..

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